I just had a TV repair guy tell me it's the tube. The arching was the anode arching and then the subsequent "no red" is the bulb being dead. Does this sound about right?

I checked the pots on the screen/focus box for resistance and they're all fine.

I checked the flyback to see if there was any ring cracks on the solder points (common with this model), and there are none that are evident.

I think if the tube was arcing it would still be arcing or the tv would have shut down completely

""then the red would fade out and immediately pop back on.""

""It then progressed to having red at first, fading out within a few minutes,""


""I did not touch the red tube/board at all,""

Do not jump too quickly on the red CRT....

IF you hear the arcing somewhat clearly, it could be where the High Voltage lead ,(the thick red wire from the flyback) connects on the side near the top of the CRT arcing to ground (near the rubber button)....
That's a relatively easy fix....
IF the arcing sounds a bit muffled , it may be arcing internally (inside the red CRT)....
That requires a new CRT....

Gotta be a GREAT meter....Those readings ARE very high ohms....

Very possibly true....

Remove the red CRT board & re-solder ALL the CRT socket connections...
With magnifying glasses or a good magnifying lens , check for cracked looking , dull or suspicious connections & re-solder those that do...

The way I understood it, and I know very little about CRT tubes, is that the "internal arch" basically once it happened it blew the bulb (similar to a tungsten filament)

It will be a couple days and I'll be sure to update.

The blue and green warmed up and came on, shortly after the red came on (good news?). So I started to adjust the pots and fix the focus and stuff. All went well till I got to the Red.

The board I was working on could use a cleaning, so I am going to try that, and then report back the final verdict.

I don't know if it is also the cause of the HR lines though.

Did you see any red in the pix while it was "on" & before you messed with the pots for focus ????

OK , when you are done with that , post back & we'll move on to my test....

No, with all them turned down, green and blue came through strong..

OK , when you are done with that , post back & we'll move on to my test....

I'm ready. My theory was to swap the blue and red boards and check, but I'm not making a move until I hear from you.

Need a bit of clarification here;=>...

We are on the same page...
Do whatever works & post back with results & answers to my questions...

I turned all the pots CCW to the minimum setting, so that I could work up from there when adjusting. <<Good thinking.. So, it's not "all the way down" in the sense that there's no power to anything, just "all the way down" to the minimum settings.

No, with all them turned down, >>green and blue came through strong <<..

Are the controls set ALL the way CCW when you;=>.

Did you see a pix or light on the viewing screen &/or the CRT face with them turned all the way down to minimum ????

I held off replying to this thread because ITC222 is not my strong suit....

So what I did was, I removed the red board all together, moved the blue and green boards over one tube.

My only assumption is that all three boards are needed to create a balance

Furthermore there was insufficient room to put the red board anywhere.

Weeeelllll , that didn't work as planned , did it ????...

So please , try this again with the red module fully hooked up & lets see what happens.

Just a reminder;=>...

What is the sound doing during all of this ???

Use care to not get them mixed up.

End result will be that the green focus & screen wires are now going to the red CRT & red focus & screen wires are going to the green CRT...

The only way I assume that there is even the slightest possibility of trying to swap the boards while leaving it plugged in would be to fully dissasemble the unit down to the chassis, that may provide enough room. Putting the red drive board under the newly moved one would certainly cause problems (to shallow). I may be able to dissasemble and pull it forwards out of the unit.

hy am I seeing what appears to be the CRTs in both videos just before the pix comes on as shown below

This is what my service manual is showing me;....

Can you post a few pix of the area where we have the space problem ???

So I slid the screen out of the way and recorded the crts in the mirror (I couldnt get an angle on them directly)

Well, still no red, but green came on anyhow? (just with no warm-up period)

I searched this thread looking to see if you have the exact manual for your set...

Do you know any reputable places online to purchase it? I keep finding plenty shady sites claiming to have it.