CX3404 = Probably GOOD (they seldom fail).
QX3402 = Definitely BAD (Shorted). (schematic shows No ID - you'll have to tell us)
R3415 = Definitely BAD (open)(.15 ohm 3 - 5 watts).
R3412M = BAD (burnt/charred/smoked?)(100 ohm 1/4 watt or smaller will work)
(Resistors and diodes are ok to test like this right?)
Let's try looking at this another way: you have a 10 ohm and a 100,000 ohm resistor, you put each resistor (in turn) across the same "coil." What resistance would you measure? ZERO in both cases! You are measuring the resistance of the "coil," NOT the value of the resistor!
Having said that: if you measure a RESISTOR "in-circuit" and you obtain very nearly the same ("correct") reading with the meter leads hooked up either way, the resistor is most likely GOOD. Drastically different readings (neither within 5 - 10% of the correct value), I'd pull one side and test again. As a side benefit of testing caps and resistors "out of circuit" - you only have to test once, no need to reverse meter leads.
Diodes are easier. With only a couple of exceptions, when tested "out of circuit" (DVM=diode test) they will always give a reading with one polarity of the meter leads and NO reading with the meter leads reversed. The only one of the three diodes you list I can be sure is good is CR3407 (retest others, one side floating).
SMD (surface mount devices) are on bottom of board and schematic says 100 ohms each. Now that you know both are SAME you can easily see the "101" on the good one?
CR3402 is to left of QX3402. Probably under a 3 watt resistor (RX3402).
SMPS = Switched mode power supply.
Pin #10 of IC3401 (current mode controller) to pin #9 resistance?
In circuit - no need to float - but test before installing new parts.