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Changing CRT Coolant

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dtrayn70
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Jan 6, 2006, 1:07 PM

Post #26 of 174 (47542 views)
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Re: [crawfishy] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I took the plunge last night. It took me about 3 hours at least. I could not fill the tubes all the way especially the green one. Now I get green ghosts at the bottom of the screen. How do I get rid of them? Thanks for all your help. The new picture looks great except for those ghosts.

crawfishy
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Jan 9, 2006, 1:31 AM

Post #27 of 174 (47446 views)
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Re: [dtrayn70] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

dtranyn70...
Because I opted not to remove the individual CRT's from the TV, I found that I had to tip the whole TV forward to be able to fill them. Even doing this, I found that I was unable to completely fill them so there is a small air pocket at the top of each tube. This is how it was when I got the TV so I figured it was OK. Well, as it turns out, I also have a ghost problem with the blue. I have tried to research this and also have put posts on this site asking for help on the subject but no-one has replied so I have just lived with it. I use the built-in convergance to get the best possible picture at the center of the screen and there is a blue ghost at all four sides. My advice to you would be to tip the TV so the fill holes are pointing straight up and that will allow you to fill them completely. You will have to tip it a LOT so be carefull or have someone there to hold it from falling. I have just not had the time to try this to see if it fixes the ghost problem. If it works, please let me know and I will do it to mine :-)

dtrayn70
New User

Jan 9, 2006, 2:37 AM

Post #28 of 174 (47444 views)
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Re: [crawfishy] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I'll have to order more fluid first. I only orgered one 24 oz bottle. Then I spilled several ounces on the floor. I'm somewhat scared of removing the seal on the lens again. I wish there were a way to maintain its integrity. Mine doesn't have any onther screws. Just 2 sets. One for the outer lens and one fir the expansion chamber. I'm scared that if I tip it all the way over it will all spill out. I did however tip it t almost 40 degrees. It still left a large bubble. I may consider taking it all out of the housing if it's not too much trouble. The picture now is 100% better but the haze around the sides and bottom disappears it will be like a brand new set.

reibe
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Jan 10, 2006, 12:52 AM

Post #29 of 174 (47404 views)
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Re: [dtrayn70] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

dtrayn70
I'm thinking about tackling this one myself as well. I do have a question that you hopefully can answer. Before removing any of the lenses, is there any electrical charge build up that I need to dispurse before I start?

dtrayn70
New User

Jan 10, 2006, 1:47 AM

Post #30 of 174 (47398 views)
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Re: [reibe] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

reibe

I know nothing of any electrical charge. I wasn't shocked at all. I think that that particular item is not found where you wil be working. I didn't take the guns out I just tipped the tv set.

Good luck to you. Let us know how it turned out.

reibe
New User

Jan 10, 2006, 4:04 AM

Post #31 of 174 (47393 views)
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Re: [jongb] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

jongb,

How much trouble was it removing the crts from the tv? It looks like it would be a much cleaner procedure in changing the fluid.

jongb
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Jan 13, 2006, 2:07 PM

Post #32 of 174 (47314 views)
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Re: [reibe] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi reibe,

Removing the CRTs from the light rack is easy, as long as you do things slowly. The first thing you have to do is to discharge the high voltage section of the TV circuit. After this is done, you can proceed in removing the CRTs. I did this one at a time, meaning, removing one CRT, cleaning it, then putting it back before proceding to the next one.

After discharging the high voltage, remove the neckboards of the CRTs. Proceed by removing the HV lead, either form the CRT which is the suction cup, or from the flyback itself. After this is done, you can now remove the screws that hold the CRT assy. Be sure that the screws you're removing are the ones that hold the assy, NOT THE LENS! YOU MIGHT SPILL THE COOLANT! Just a reminder...

Gently lift the whole assy, taking extra care not to knock the CRT neck. Once clear, you can now proceed to drain the old coolant and dismantle the CRT assy. Good Luck.

rich32822
New User

Jan 14, 2006, 10:54 PM

Post #33 of 174 (47283 views)
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Re: [jongb] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

WOW! I can't believe I started this thread in July and it is still alive!

I just finished changing out the coolant and the picture is amazingly clear (Not a procrastinator, just busy with life and a new house. This project became a snowday HoneyDo!) The process IS NOT difficult if you are at all mechanically inclined. It took me about 5 hours to complete the process. I didn't remove the individual guns, instead I went through the top of each.

There has been so much information shared on this thread that I don't see the need to post how I went about this. Crawfishy's advice is excellent. Here's just a few suggestions if you want to change the fluid leaving the guns inside the unit:

Use plastic bags tightly taped around each tube to catch spills of the coolant. A bag with a little elasticity works best as it grips the side of the tube and helps prevent spills. I'm thinking a large piece of latex something like a dental dam would work great.
Use a turkey baster to remove the old coolant. Crawfishy gave me this one.
Work slowly and carefully.

BTW, the coolant can be sourced all over the internet. I've found a local source in Michigan and can supply if you can't find - $15/bottle. Each bottle provides enough for one tube. 3 tubes = 3 bottles = $45. Drop me an Email if you need. rich32822@hotmail.com.

(This post was edited by rich32822 on Jan 15, 2006, 10:02 PM)

wizwagons
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Jan 15, 2006, 1:22 AM

Post #34 of 174 (47274 views)
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Re: [jongb] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Question: The CRT coolant, is it hazardous, do you need to keep it off your skin? How should I dispose of the old coolant?

I do large industrial electrical repair, this fluid looks like a silcone transformer oil. Any idea what it is?

rich32822
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Jan 15, 2006, 10:00 PM

Post #35 of 174 (47252 views)
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What a difference a day makes.... [In reply to]	Can't Post

I just changed the coolant on this projection TV - Philips Magnavox 5450. While watching it during the past few days, we occasionally heard a 'POP' coming from the back of the set. I attributed it to moisture - wishful thinking. A few times we heard this 'pop' and nothing else happened. Other times the TV would shut off but I could turn it back on again with no problem.

Today however, we were watching it and 'POP' the TV shut off. We turned it back on and about 1 minute later 'POP' again. This time when we turn it back on, it stayed on for about 3 seconds and shut back off.

Thankfully, this is nothing more than a project for me to play with. however, after changing the coolant, the picture was truly amazing! I don't know if this problem is related to the work I did because I acquired the TV at a garage sale for the sole purpose of trying to fix it and have never had it on for any length of time. Any thoughts? rich32822@hotmail.com

reibe
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Jan 17, 2006, 2:56 AM

Post #36 of 174 (47219 views)
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Re: [dtrayn70] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I finished changing the fluid the other night, and what a difference! I can't thank you guys enough. I did as you said and took my time, I did have to tip the TV quite a bit to fill the CRT's completely though. Here are to pictures to try and show how good it came out.

(This post was edited by reibe on Jan 17, 2006, 3:01 AM)

Attachments:

Before.JPG (188 KB)

After.JPG (228 KB)

dwilliams309
New User

Jan 19, 2006, 4:40 PM

Post #37 of 174 (47173 views)
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Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Just wanted to share our two cents on changing the coolant. I printed out the directions and read ALL the postings here and it was such a great learning experience. Up until 24 hours ago when a technician came and looked at our tv, charged me $45.00 and said he would change the coolants for $600.00, we didn't even know it had coolant or anything like that!! So, I got on the internet and started searching, called Magnavox (no help at all, wanted like $17.00 fee to help me) and there is very little info on the internet about this procedure. We have just started the process while we are waiting on our shipment of coolant to arrive by UPS 2nd Day Air tomorrow (Friday). Our TV differed a little from the printed instructions, although they were a great help. Our process so far has been:

We took off the front frame of the screen (52inch) and unscrewed the screws holding the screen on, there were two screens, one on top of the other. There was a light plastic case covering the base of the CRT's, so we removed that. We were then looking at the three CRT's trying to find the expansion chamber described as a while plastic bulb like thing. We didn't have this. There were four screws/bolts holding down the lens, so we removed these four screws. There was another small metal black box looking thing on the side of the lens/crt, so we assumed that was the expansion chamber. We removed the screws holding this down. It was a little black rubber bladder inside the lid and there was a hole into the chamber holding the coolant. Heres where it gets interesting. We were looking for the add'l four screws that we would remove the lens after sucking out the coolant. There were no other screws! We touched the round plastic edge of the CRT lens and it moved, it was not secured down by anything other than the lens we took off and you can't get to the expansion chamber without removing the CRT LENS COVER FIRST! So, be careful if you have this tv or it could spill the old coolant. Of course ours was all mucked up, so we proceeded to suck out the old coolant, removed the concave lense and sucked the rest directly out of the chamber. Thats as far as we got so far, but we will proceed with the next two CRT's cleanouts this evening and refill Friday when the new coolant arrives. Uploading pictures now!! Notice one of the expansion chambers is on the front and the other two are on the back. May be a little more difficult. Will post the results!

Thanks!

Dana

(This post was edited by dwilliams309 on Jan 19, 2006, 4:47 PM)

Attachments:

CRT before.jpg (32.9 KB)

One CRT cleaned.jpg (31.9 KB)

Lens and cover removed.jpg (24.4 KB)

dtrayn70
New User

Jan 20, 2006, 3:05 AM

Post #38 of 174 (47147 views)
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Re: [dwilliams309] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

dwilliams,

Yours is similar to mine. There are no extra screws holding down the upper lens. I moved the lens and all the coolant came roaring out. Good thing I had the mainboard covered with superstrong and absorbent dropcloth. I only changed 2 guns as the red one didn't have a problem. I just couldn't fill up the green gun all the way. I may try again at a later date, but for now I will live with the green haze at the bottom and sides.

I can't believe they wanted yo charge you $600. You can buy a brand new set for $850 or so and you can get a very good used one for less than $600.

Keep us posted and good luck.

dwilliams309
New User

Jan 20, 2006, 1:43 PM

Post #39 of 174 (47140 views)
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Re: [dtrayn70] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Yea, it was just by accident that we figured out the lens wasn't screwed down. Luckily we didn't spill a drop, but we had put paper towels packed all around. We took the whole unit loose from the frame it was bolted down on and blocked it up so that it was flat and even. Our cooling fluid should be here today, so we plan on pouring it directly into the tank and then putting the concave lense on and sucking out any overflow from the expansion chamber. Since we have blocked these up even, this should work and not leave any large air bubbles in it. The only thing we are not sure of is in the directions it said to "focus the CRT's" - not sure how this is done at this point. I saw the convergance menu on the television - is that focusing the CRT's?

We weren't going to do all three of ours either, as only one looked really bad. However, we read a post that said to do all three when you are in there. When we did the other two, they were worse than they looked when looking through the glass. It was about the color of semi weak iced tea, so we were glad we went ahead and changed all three. Only one had crud growing on the concave lense and required some elbow grease to get it all off. We thought the glass was etched at first, but it was just the bacteria growing on it. We don't want to have to do this again!! The television is almost 11 years old, so it should die before we would need to change the coolant again - ha! We just bought a Toshiba, 1080P, 56" DLP with built-in HDTV tuner and HDMI connections, Sony 400 disc DVD/CD with HDMI and a new JVC tuner so we don't want to have to spend anymore money right now on another television!

As for the tv techs that came, I think they just wanted their $45 service call. I ask them to clean the bulbs and mirror anyway when they were here and not do the coolant change and they refused, telling me that there was nothing to clean. I told them I thought there was as I had it cleaned about 7 years ago and it had to be dirty from us moving, etc. The insisted that there was nothing to clean. When we opened it up, the mirror and all three CRT lenses were covered in a thick layer of dust. I am thinking about reporting them to the Better Business Bureau.

Thanks!

Dana

dalep
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Jan 21, 2006, 5:44 PM

Post #40 of 174 (47118 views)
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Re: [rich32822] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Have Hitachi 43UWX10B 43" rear projection unit. Purchased new in 2001. Should I assume that this has coolant and if so does anyone have experience with changing coolant on this type of unit? Are there diagrams that would show me how to access the CRT's, etc.?

Thanks ahead of time-

dalep

Bardic
New User

Jan 25, 2006, 11:09 PM

Post #41 of 174 (47028 views)
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Re: [dalep] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

When I look into the lenses with the machine off, I can see that the blue and green are not as clear as the red, so i am planning on replacing the fluid. What I am wondering about is that I can see little dead bugs and hairs that appear to be inside also. Is that normal, or maybe those bugs are just on the other side of the liquid filled section.

Edit: nevermind, I see where the bugs are, now to get some stuff ordered.

(This post was edited by Bardic on Jan 26, 2006, 4:40 AM)

powerdmos
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Feb 8, 2006, 5:10 PM

Post #42 of 174 (46778 views)
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Re: [dwilliams309] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi Dana,

I read your advice on changing the coolant, Thanks.

I think my set is similar. I have a 54” Magnavox, model= something W101.

Like yours, I can not see any bulb or anything like that.

The bolts that hold down my lens look like torx bolts?

Were your bolts torx or normal Phillips heads?

How did you add new fluid if you had to remove the seal to get at the fill cap?

Would it be better to take the assy out?

Regards,

Andy

powerdmos
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Feb 13, 2006, 6:01 PM

Post #43 of 174 (46734 views)
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Re: [powerdmos] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hello Dana,

Just wanted to tell you I changed the fluid this weekend.

I opted to remove the CRT assemblies from the TV chassis. Some connector were a little stuck but I did it!

The first CRT and lens assembly I did ended up causing a big mess on my work bench.

I’m glad I put plastic down. I figured out why the expansion screws are under the lens cover and cannot be removed. On the bottom side, opposite the expansion screws, there is a plastic nut, this is a drain plug similar to that used in a car to change the oil. This is the Trick! For the next two CRT assemblies I simply removed this drain plug ( Only ¼ turn !) and held the assembly over a plastic container. After the oil drains out you can proceed to remove the lens to clean and flush out the inside. You don’t need to touch the expansion tank/screws!

I wasn’t so picky about flushing the entire lens/CRT glass out, I simply used a soft flannel cloth to absorb the rest of the oil, I pour denatured alcohol on to a rag and wiped everything out, then did the same thing with distilled H2O. I made sure the o-ring was in the alignment groove and put it all together again. I did need to use a E6 external Torx socket to remove/install the covers, fortunately I bought everything ahead of time. I refilled the lens by pouring the oil into a glue bottle with a long tip I bought at Woodcraft and used a Pen cap as a mini funnel. I filled the lens up to the top, each lens help ~ 14oz of oil!

I have no idea how people do this without removing the assemblies! You have to remove the assy. or tip the TV on the back or front? Crazy!

All went well. Even after cleaning the assy off with rags, I still got oil in the nooks and crannies of the assy. The oil ended up falling out on the small signal and large signal board. Fortunately I checked the TV the next day looking for leaks and discovered this. I cleaned it up with rubbing alcohol and q-tips. Everything is fine now!

I used the remote code to enter a Field technician convergence mode and proceeded to the touch-up-alignment menu. I converged the red with respect to the green, then blue Wrt green. The picture looks great, it’s not LCD quality but the color looks good. There is no more hazing around the blue menus, Etc.

You had mentioned you messed around with the green geometry alignment! This is an option under Major Alignment! I have the Service procedure on this and read through it. I don’t know if you have the Docs on this but you may be able to fix the set yourself! You need an alignment template you can get through Magnavox, and you need to move a jumper on the large signal logic board! The procedure that I found was in an envelope on the back of my set. It told me how to do the alignment.

I’m going to post this on the website if others need this info!

Regards,

jchadwell
New User

Feb 19, 2006, 3:43 AM

Post #44 of 174 (46633 views)
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Re: [powerdmos] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

I would like to look at the alignment procedure. Is there a contact or part # for the alignment template?

Thanks in advance and please post the procedure.

Tankain
New User

Feb 21, 2006, 2:56 AM

Post #45 of 174 (46605 views)
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Re: [crawfishy] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I had a small red mark on my screen so i read most of this forum and took it apart.

I put paper towel around the crt before i took it apart,i got to the lens and took off the lens cover .

I noticed that under the fluid on the other side of the glass there is either a small crack or some dust that acumilated.

Is there any way to clean this part of the glass to check it?

Or is it easy to replace?

powerdmos
New User

Feb 21, 2006, 3:04 PM

Post #46 of 174 (46590 views)
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Re: [jchadwell] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi jChadwell,

I'm at work right now but, I'll PDF the paper some time this week and post it on the website.

The template is available through Magnavox, the tollfree number is on the paper.

Check the forum for the update.

Regards,

powerdmos
New User

Feb 21, 2006, 5:59 PM

Post #47 of 174 (46584 views)
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Re: [Tankain] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi Tankin,

I'm not sure what glass you mean...

The CRT usually gets a film on it and needs to be cleaned.

A red spot on the screen, hum not sure about this! I've had spots due to lady bugs on the lens!

If the oil/fluid is causing the problem, the fluid will be yellow instead of clear. Usually the red fluid looks

OK, I'm basing this on other posts and when I changed my own.

See my previous post on how I cleaned the Lens and CRT

Hope this helps!

Regards,

powerdmos
New User

Feb 22, 2006, 5:59 PM

Post #48 of 174 (46564 views)
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Re: [powerdmos] Magnavox Coolant change (FP5220 W103) [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi jChadwell,

Please send me an Email Address and I'll send you the PDF.

Regards

(This post was edited by powerdmos on Feb 23, 2006, 1:25 PM)

powerdmos
New User

Feb 27, 2006, 2:46 PM

Post #49 of 174 (46468 views)
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After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

My TV quit working this weekend! It went pop and the red LED in the front came on, it blinked 3 times slow, 2 times fast and then shut off. It wouldn’t turn on again but, and after several turn on tries, it finally repeated this blinking ritual.

IF COOLANT SPILLS ON THE LOGIC BOARDS, I recommend that you take out the board/s, that the coolant spilled on and clean the board top and bottom. Fortunately, these TV’s are made to be serviced in the field, therefore everything comes apart easy.

I took out the Large Signal board this weekend, it came out will 2 screws, and a bunch of connectors.The board is then removed from the plastic support by 3 screws.

After the coolant change(I wrote about in my previous posts), the TV had been making this really loud pop sound! I’d be watching a movie, enjoying my success after changing the fluid, and suddenly crack! As loud as a firecracker! This happened about 5 times over a course of a week, It’s impossible to look in the back and wait for this to happen! …….. I read some of the posts and some people thought this was caused by air in lens, I thought it was the CRT spark gap. The spark gap will do this if the high voltage is adjusted to high. I didn’t mess with any of the adjustments so I couldn’t understand this ????????

This coolant isn’t so much corrosive but, it’s some what conductive! I read the MSDS hazard data sheet that came with the stuff and it really didn’t say it was corrosive, but as I found out this weekend it’s conductive if it sees high voltage.

The problem was some of the coolant had dripped off the lens and made its way to the edge of the Large signal board. It then flowed down and around and settled along on the bottom of the Logic board. When some coolant spilled, I only cleaned the top of the board. When the TV died, I removed the board and did my usual smell and sight check. I noticed a black mark at the edge of the board. Closer examination revealed a puddle of coolant at this location and a blown metal run. The metal run had about 5 arc marks leaving the edge and terminating to the ground plane metal, which runs along the entire edge of the board.(Explains the 5 pop sounds) The blown run must be a high voltage run and because the coolant is conductive, leakage current began to flow, resulting in the creation of a leaky capacitor. When the voltage was high enough an arc similar to a lightning bolt would jump between the metal runs causing electrical overstress on the metal.The conditions had to be just right to break down the leaky capacitor! The metal actually wore out and then the metal trace severed, due to the high voltage&current.

The fix was easy, clean the coolant fluid up from the bottom of the board, and solder a wire jumper between the opened metal run. That’s all it was! I was watching a DVD about ½ hour later!

Hope this helps!!!!

Regards,

(This post was edited by powerdmos on Mar 3, 2006, 5:45 PM)

rich32822
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Mar 21, 2006, 2:04 PM

Post #50 of 174 (46197 views)
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Re: [powerdmos] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

Is there any chance that you took pics of the procedure? It sounds like this is my next step!

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