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Changing CRT Coolant

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brooker32
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Jul 9, 2007, 12:07 AM

Post #101 of 174 (39101 views)
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Re: [k4eez] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Heres what I have ordered...http://www.elexp.com/che_5803.htm. Should have it this week hopefully. I read here some have found a drain plug to remove coolant. You might want to look for that. I will when I start mine. I have read it may take up to 16 oz's per tube. I order 32 oz's just to be sure. I have a badly contaminated blue lense. If I am sucessful at this job I then have to order IC's as I also have a convergence problem. It is not urgent, but annoying. All these problems for a 3 year old 42" Samsung.

brooker32
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Jul 13, 2007, 10:12 PM

Post #102 of 174 (39072 views)
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Re: [brooker32] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I managed to replace my coolant today. I did the blue tube only. It made a noticable difference for sure. I didn't remove the crt all the way, however I disconnected all but 2 connecters and I was able to remove it enough that the blub and lense was away from the machine. I removed the old fluid with a baster and hose, refilling it was a breeze. No worries about not filling it all the way as I just had to pour in in until it came level to the edge of the buble casing. All in all it worked out good. I checked for coolant leaks and there were no signs of any. Now my next job is to order my IC's tp fix my convergence problem. I can't adjust my green left or right...only up and down. As a result the sides of my screen is bowed in and it distorts images a little on each side. It is nothing major...but I figure it's just as well to fix this too. This coolant job cost me $50 Canadian for everything.....hose, coolant, alcohol, etc and I have more than enough coolant to do my other 2 tubes if i need to.

k4eez
New User

Jul 14, 2007, 12:42 PM

Post #103 of 174 (39070 views)
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Re: [brooker32] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

hey group
I have ordered the coolant, should be here soon, thx for the tip's
Has anyone on here changes out the coolant for the Magnavox, I have a 57 inch
model: FP5240-W101
CHASS# PTV710AH01
YEAR: 1995
coolant has never never been changed out in its entire life, and now is starting to show
what do u use to clean out the coolant area, what chem do u use to flush?
how do u re seal the nipple?
i have not rearly look at mine, but it looks as if i have to take out the main board to get to them as there is no way to get to the front of the TV to do the coolant change out, i will end up doing all 3
any advice, i would love to see some pictures of the nipples on the crt's, so i know what i am looking for
again tnx for the replys

k4eez
New User

Aug 6, 2007, 3:33 AM

Post #104 of 174 (39010 views)
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Re: [brooker32] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hello all
I did the coolant change out, i also opped in to take each CRT out of the magnavox (one by one), i pulled the crt board off the back of the CRT and pull off both gnd wires, the only thing left to un plug was the H.T flycable that i undid from the tripler/bridge and the magna field coil
then i could un do all 4 screws on each CRT, and undone each crt one at a time, red, green blue...
i took the housing apart and took out the old coolant, red and green was ok but i replaced it anyways.. the blue however was very dirty and had a lot of crud build up on the face of the CRT, i cleaned it all out and flushed it with alcohol dried it off and refiled with new coolant,whased the gaskit and remounted the gaskets and housing doing up the 4 bolts that secure the housing to the CRT, and then remounded the backplate to the entire CRT and securing them with the 4 spring bolts.
i did this to all 3 CRT's, one bay one and reinstalled them as i went.
anyhow, the picture is wonderful, but some how i screwed up Frown

Frown

? ? ? ?
what i get when viewing the TV is flare outs, like a ghost image along side the real image, and towads the bottom it also flares out lower left and right and bows the refelction up frm the lower center, i did go into the convergence config set up, there is no flare outs in that mode, when i retuen to normal tv screen the flare is still there
the picture is much more brighter than before and i even have white for the first time insted of a yallow pink color...

dose anyone know how i can cerrect the picture iamgat and phaze the flare back in to faze to the real image?
i am thinking that i mush have bumped the yoke or the yoke tabs, would this cauls the flare out image problems that i am seeing on the screen?
any help advice i will be watching this post like a bird for any advice...
thank you in advance for any help and info
i will now try and upload some images that i took with my digital cammra
7 3
Mark

(This post was edited by k4eez on Aug 17, 2007, 3:04 PM)

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unclerabid
New User

Aug 17, 2007, 6:31 AM

Post #105 of 174 (38963 views)
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Re: [MOtvGuy] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was recently given a Phillips Magnavox 9P5040C1 (50 inch projection) - the original owner was told "it needed new tubes" - the original problem was that it took an hour to warm up (the screen would start out small and slowly grow to full size - and a crappy ghostly image). A can of freeze spray quickly pointed out it was an optoisolator chip that was the culprit - changing that out solved the warm -up problem.

The poor picture quality was, of course, goop in the blue and green guns. I removed each carefully, not disturbing the focus, etc., one at a time (didn't touch the red). cleaned and refilled the coolant. The difference in picture was nothing short of amazing after doing the convergence (which shows a perfect, crisp, pure white cross) - went thru the other convergnces and all is well, except the bottom quarter of the screen where the colors start to separate and then leaves a red line across the bottom. One the extreme left, there's an enlongated yellowish triangle (about and inch high, shrinking to nothing half way across).

What did I do wrong?? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

UncleRabid (http://www.unclerabid.com)

k4eez
New User

Aug 17, 2007, 3:10 PM

Post #106 of 174 (38948 views)
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Re: [unclerabid] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

hi
you may have bumped the Tabs on the neck of the CRT, I am thinking I did the same here when I did my change out 2 weeks ago, on further observations of the problem I have on the screen when viewing the TV, EG when watching a movie and the titles scroll up the screen, I get a Bow effect and color distortions on left and right lower and center like a ghost image but once it gets past the center of the screen its disappears, also towards the bottom there are like round rings of the picture image, the blue and green are slightly out of sink, but when i go into the Conv. mode it is lined up just fine and not distortions are noticed, go back to the tv viewing mode and its just as I described as per above...

I am still thinking that when I pulled out the CRT's I must have bumped the Tab/yokes
The tab/Yokes, is I think and please,
Someone correct me if I am wrong,
The round shaped like Tabs that live on the bottle neck of the CRT is a yoke/Tab ???
Check out picture# 3 on my prev. post, its just located before the magnacoil
I believe this acts as a small fixed magnet or a ferrite ring and placing them on the back of the CRT. This would ADJ. the magnetic field to allow for further alignment.
Maybe someone one here can explain what the purpose of these small ring/Tabs are for and how to Adj. the picture in a safe manor, there is a lot of HIGH VOLTAGE on Around the CRT’s so don’t go poking your hands inside while the TV set is Powered on unless you absolutely know what you are doing EG: a qualified TV Repair.

I am not, but I thought I would give it a go to change out the CRT coolant anyways and I did.
Appreciate it if some of you that ARE QUALIFIED in TV repair that might be able to enlighten us as to what might be the real problem and maybe how to deal with it in a safe manner
i have tried to take a picture of the titled screen, if you look to the lower left and right you will see the problem... ANY HELP Advide...

the poping sound could be a number of things:
the CRT coolant expaction.
you may have spilled some coolant on the coil and its driped on the board somhow
the CRT coolant housing may have not been tight enough and leaked out
may have damage the H.T flyback cable and its arking or arcked or a GND wire has worked lose
just some ideas.

We do appreciate all replies

Thank you all in advance.
M.

P.S
Where has the upload tag gone to, can't upload any pictures???? WHY?

unclerabid
New User

Aug 17, 2007, 11:36 PM

Post #107 of 174 (38945 views)
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Re: [k4eez] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

I don't think I bumped the yokes - I've done TV repair since I was 12 (I'm 55 now) and realize what would happen.
Generally, if you move a yoke. the picture will be affected over the entire screen as this would change the angle of the image.
I'll be playing with the tv over the weekend and let you know what I find - I think for one thing the durn thing was adjusted with the the filthy coolant in it, making the problem worse. The blue gun is also of different construction, has a white label (the other two are red, leaving me to believe that the unit was replaced).

Jim RabidWolf Hickinbotham (uncle rabid)
http://www.unclerabid.com

k4eez
New User

Aug 18, 2007, 6:23 PM

Post #108 of 174 (38940 views)
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Re: [unclerabid] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

got the same here in the CRT's , 2 are the same and the 3rd is different, check out my prev. photos....
i replaced all the coolant in all 3 anywasys...

tell me more about the yokes, are they the small round tabs that sit on the rear of the crt?
what do u thing i have done to my CRT's?
any advice?

tnx
Trip.

dddy170
New User

Aug 28, 2007, 4:10 PM

Post #109 of 174 (38869 views)
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Re: [k4eez] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

I need help replaced coolant in philips model FP5240-w104
Chasis model PTV710-Ah01
now i have sound but no picture help Please

ma062386
New User

Sep 9, 2007, 4:57 AM

Post #110 of 174 (38777 views)
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Re: [crawfishy] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hello,

I just wanted to thank everyone who has posted to this thread. I replaced the coolant in my Philips today, and it turned out great! It's like having a brand new TV.

Thanks again,

Marcus

k4eez
New User

Sep 9, 2007, 10:57 PM

Post #111 of 174 (38767 views)
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Re: [dddy170] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

hi,
try doing the following...

prehaps you need to look into the flyback transfomer and also make sure all the crt's are comming on

check all the wires that come from the board to the crt's.

make sure all crt's fly back cables are connected propley.

also check you have not droped/leaked any coolant on the board(s), the popping noise is a short or
arking/jumping.

try the A/V jacks and pump a video into it

do u get any menus when you push the manu on the remote control???

if so, it could be the video V or H circuit/controler that may have gone bad...

thats all the advice i can give
we would like to hear for you, what happens when you plug in the TV, plug in a video source via the A/V input and power the TV up, what happens next?

are all 3 CRT's comming on
(can you see the heaters on the CRT's)?

is ther an led on the front, is it flashing a code?
EG it will blink 3 times and go off?

lot of unanswered questions...

tnx
Trip.

<table border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 width="100%"><tr><td width="2%"><hr width="100%" noshade size="1" color="#A1A576"></td><td width="10%" align=center><font size=1 face="Verdana,Arial,Helvetica">In Reply To</font></td><td width="87%"><hr width="100%" noshade color="#A1A576" size=1></td></tr></table><div style="margin-left: 30px">I need help replaced coolant in philips model FP5240-w104 <br>Chasis model PTV710-Ah01 <br>now i have sound but no picture help Please</div><table border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 width="100%"><tr><td><hr width="100%" noshade size=1 color="#A1A576"></td></tr></table> Smile

Smile

Smile

k4eez
New User

Sep 9, 2007, 11:18 PM

Post #112 of 174 (38766 views)
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Re: [k4eez] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

__________________________________________________

ok folks,

I found out that its not the yoke coil, and when i was asking about the flare out's (as per post) what i did mean to ask the group was...

Please see Pic number:
CRT Replacing the coolant 003.JPG (210 KB)

On the neck of the CRT, between the yoke coil is,
And the CRT board, there are like black rings

Can some one please explain to me what the purposes of the rings are and what they do?????

I think that is what I must have bumped when replacing the crt's

Please help ... - - - ...

Thank you in advance
Trip.

_______________________________________________

In Reply To

Hello all
I did the coolant change out, i also opped in to take each CRT out of the magnavox (one by one), i pulled the crt board off the back of the CRT and pull off both gnd wires, the only thing left to un plug was the H.T flycable that i undid from the tripler/bridge and the magna field coil
then i could un do all 4 screws on each CRT, and undone each crt one at a time, red, green blue...
i took the housing apart and took out the old coolant, red and green was ok but i replaced it anyways.. the blue however was very dirty and had a lot of crud build up on the face of the CRT, i cleaned it all out and flushed it with alcohol dried it off and refiled with new coolant,whased the gaskit and remounted the gaskets and housing doing up the 4 bolts that secure the housing to the CRT, and then remounded the backplate to the entire CRT and securing them with the 4 spring bolts.
i did this to all 3 CRT's, one bay one and reinstalled them as i went.
anyhow, the picture is wonderful, but some how i screwed up Frown

Frown

? ? ? ?
what i get when viewing the TV is flare outs, like a ghost image along side the real image, and towads the bottom it also flares out lower left and right and bows the refelction up frm the lower center, i did go into the convergence config set up, there is no flare outs in that mode, when i retuen to normal tv screen the flare is still there
the picture is much more brighter than before and i even have white for the first time insted of a yallow pink color...

dose anyone know how i can cerrect the picture iamgat and phaze the flare back in to faze to the real image?
i am thinking that i mush have bumped the yoke or the yoke tabs, would this cauls the flare out image problems that i am seeing on the screen?
any help advice i will be watching this post like a bird for any advice...
thank you in advance for any help and info
i will now try and upload some images that i took with my digital cammra
7 3
Mark

(This post was edited by k4eez on Sep 9, 2007, 11:21 PM)

dddy170
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Sep 11, 2007, 5:44 PM

Post #113 of 174 (38746 views)
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Re: [k4eez] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

i got a feelin its the high voltage splitter cause i took of the main and it had power but when plugged in to splitter nothing. i checked all the connections there all on. tried everything u said nothing. red light does flash on front by power switch. got great sound just no pic. crt tubes dont fire up like its not getting power.

k4eez
New User

Sep 11, 2007, 8:38 PM

Post #114 of 174 (38742 views)
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Re: [dddy170] After Coolant Change loud POP sound! [In reply to]	Can't Post

think u need to trace it all back to a known power point, also check the TP's could be a lot of things voltage reg, tube heater driver, bad dioad's, iffy caps ???

texasrich
New User

Oct 13, 2007, 1:55 PM

Post #115 of 174 (38521 views)
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Re: [rich32822] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I too have had a Magnavox FP4620W103 and passed it along to my son-in-law. I had the fluid changed a few years ago for about $300. This time I called Magnavox and they gave me the name of a local TV place that answered some of my questions. However the answers appear to be wrong. I was told the coolant fluid was pure glycerin ( look like I will be reodering the correct fluid). The second problem is once you move the guns the convergence has to be reset through the service mode of the Tv not through the menu. I was told to go to the front of the TV (with power on) push menu and hold, the push power, release,and push channel up or down. At this point you should get a black box the has a P: & V: in it. You run the volume to 80 and follow the prompts. This will allow you to set convergence at about 30 points across the screen. Does anyone have the correct proceedure to get into the service mode.
I also had the popping problem an other person had and it was an insulation breakdown at the high voltage input to the gun. The high voltage was arcing to the TV frame. A health dab of RTV fixed the problem.
Thanks,
Rich

smhinesley
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Jan 13, 2008, 5:49 PM

Post #116 of 174 (38282 views)
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Re: [texasrich] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I bought a Samsung 47" RPT from Craigslist last year and was willing to put up with the washed colors because of the good deal I got. After getting tired of the poor color quality, I did some research to see what the problem was and if it was something I could fix myself.....that's when I came across this thread and decided to give the coolant change a shot. I couldn't see all of the blue lines in the convergenece screen (only in the center), so I assumed the blue gun coolant needed changing.

I spent about 5 hours yesterday replacing the fluid in the blue gun, but I took my time and made sure that I knew where all the wires were connected (even though I didn't know what most of the wires were for) so that I could reconnect the gun after completion. Given what I learned, I think I can do the other guns (should I decide to in the future) in probably 2 hours max (each). I cannot be happier with the results. It really is like having a brand new television.

I am an engineer and generally technically minded, but my experience is in civil engineering and not electrical (or television) engineering, so basically, I am an amateur. My intent is to give someone who may be thinking about doing this a bit of hope that it can be done, but I also know that you have to be very methodical and be willing to risk destroying your set. I started this anticipating that I would tear something up beyond repair and have to buy a new television (my wife has since admitted that she was expecting the same!)

The first thing I did was to remove the back to the television and study everything there. After taking the focusing lens assembly off, I was able to see that the coolant in the blue chamber was yellowish. I determined that I could not replace the fluid without removing the gun because the crt frame prevented removal of the cap to the expansion chamber.

Next, I took photographs of the blue gun and all the connections. I traced each wire and placed a mark (with a sharpie) on each one so that I would know where it goes. I studied the whole thing for about an hour before ever trying to remove the gun. I then disconnected each wire and studied what was left to remove after each step. I removed the screws holding the crt to the frame. At this point, I was ready to remove the gun.

After finally getting the gun out, I studied it for a bit before removing the expansion chamber cap and sucking the fluid out of the chamber (as you can see from the photographs, I used some clear vinyl tubing from lowes that I attached to a squirt bottle). After all of the fluid was out, I took off the metal plate securing the lens and removed the lens and the o-ring and cleaned everything (except the o-ring) with denatured alcohol (from lowes - in the paint thinner section) and cotton balls. I cleaned the o-ring with distilled water and then rinsed everything with distilled water. I then coated the o-ring and the outer flange of the lens with 100% silicone (I used plumber's silicone grease - from lowes in the plumbing section), put the assembly back together and filled the chamber with new coolant (I learned the hard way, that if you squirt the coolant in too fast you will get tiny bubbles in the chamber that are hard to get out. I actually removed the fluid and re-filled the chamber very slowly to prevent the bubbles from forming).

I didn't mention it earlier, but I broke one of the connectors on the circuit board on the bottom of the crt and had to re-solder it, but that wasn't a big deal, really. I don't know what it was, but apparently my soldering job worked just fine.

I then re-installed the gun, connected all of the wires, screwed it back into the frame and turned the set on. Immediately, I could see the difference. I spent some time with the video essentials DVD adjusting the color and also adjusted the convergence and now have a fantastic picture.

I would like to say that I know nothing about televisions and may have come close to touching something that would shock the heck out of me (the television was unplugged, but I didn't try to dissipate any stored charge), but I was very careful and took my time. Some may say that I was stupid for trying this myself and it is a very dangerous thing to do, but I did it anyway and am very pleased. I also have a pretty good feeling of accomplishment right now. Granted, my tv may blow up tomorrow because of something I did (I'll let you know if it does), but for now, I'll just enjoy the perfect picture quality.

I haven't proofed this message (and don't intend to), so if I have typos or grammatical errors, please just let them slide.

I had crawfishy's pdf document at my side the whole time (thanks, by the way). It was extremely helpful.

I have attached some photographs to show the whole process.......

I hope this helps someone who is in the same position that I was in. Good luck if you give it a shot......

SH

(This post was edited by smhinesley on Jan 19, 2008, 3:19 PM)

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jasonbaby
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Jan 28, 2008, 3:35 AM

Post #117 of 174 (38177 views)
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Re: [smhinesley] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I am using Samsung RPTV Type No:CM48T6, Model No:SP-48T5HP and there is a problem of Blue CRT Driver Board. The part number of CRT PCB board is AA41-00600E (same model Samsung HCM4216W or Akai PT4298HD).
Firstly, the blue color was lost. I removed this board from Blue CRT and detected there was a problem in this board. The capacitor C501(10mF/250V) was leaked. I replaced 1 new capacitor (10mF/400V) and turn TV on. The blue color was recovered and color was perfect. However, after few hours in using, the blue color was lost again. I removed the blue CRT driver board form CRT and detected the capacitor I replaced was leaked again. One more time, I replaced a new capacitor(10mF/400V). TV operated nearly normal but only few hours and capacitor I replaced was leaked again. I replaced total 4 new capacitors (10mF/400V) and all of them were leaked after turn TV on a few hours (about 2-3 hours)
Please help me to resolve this problem.

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leaked capacitor.JPG (112 KB)

Blue CRT Driver Board AA41-00600E.JPG (160 KB)

VIDGuide
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Jun 22, 2008, 2:08 AM

Post #118 of 174 (37431 views)
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Re: [jasonbaby] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hi guys!
sorry to wake up an old thread, but just a quick question, does anyone know an online (or physical) place that sells this coolant either in Australia, or able to ship to Australia? All the ones linked to in this thread are USA shipping only!

Having a bit of trouble tracking some down locally otherwise..
Anyone got any ideas? :) Thanks!

setzor
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Jul 23, 2008, 6:03 PM

Post #119 of 174 (37037 views)
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Re: Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Hey everybody, sorry to resurrect this thread, but I just replaced the coolant in my FP5230. Thanks to the site It was a pretty smooth operation.
Slight problem though, the convergence seems to be off on different parts of the screen, I must've fiddled with the dials on the convergance board for 4 solid hours last night, and my fingers are sore today. Still couldn't get it to look right.
My question is, and I included a picture taken by someone else here since I'm at work, There are 4 copper mono-wire nodes on both sides of each CRT, the green and red only have 2 black wires clipped into them and the blue has 3, one of them being a yellow cable running to the back of the tv.
If these wires aren't plugged in exactly as they were, could that cause any problems in picture/color convergence?

rkcrews
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Jan 4, 2009, 3:58 AM

Post #120 of 174 (35593 views)
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Re: [setzor] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

I just want to thank everybody on this thread. I got a 60in Magnavox for hardly nothing, thinking I could piddle with it. Then after I got it home I decided to fix it ASAP. So I tore into it, after reading this thread of course. Then I was trying to find a local vendor for the coolant, and the same old line always came up. Ole you don't won't to tackle that project, its to hard. They don't understand I work on heavy equipment and they don't know what hard work is in till you tackle taking a lift cylinder off of a 50ton uke, now that's labor. But anyways, with the people on this threads help, I fixed my projection tv. Hats off to you all...

panaman
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Jan 13, 2009, 6:58 PM

Post #121 of 174 (35525 views)
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Re: [rkcrews] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

rkcrews if you are still around did you take your crts out to change the fluid or did you leave them in?

for anybody else thats still around which way is easier pull out/leave in?
I have my fluid but i dont want to have to solder anything back together as i've never done that before.

my tv is a 6P5430 W102 that was given to me as a 50" Magnavox tv but i think its 54", i have the pdf but i really want to know if anyone made any picture tutorials since 2006 so i could really "see" what im supposed to be doing

Thanks
ps: also how do i adjust the convergence without the original tv remote?

heres my pics:

with the power off the red one is perfectly white with light shining down in there, thats how its supposed to be right?
also the dust colored panel in the third pic up says screen focus would that be all i nedd to mess with when im finished?

(This post was edited by panaman on Jan 13, 2009, 10:26 PM)

rkcrews
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Jan 13, 2009, 11:08 PM

Post #122 of 174 (35511 views)
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Re: [panaman] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

What I did was lay the tv on its front and back. Now mine had drain and fill holes, of course on opposite sides. It was a lot easier, I did not feel like getting the hell shocked out of me or take a chance of messing the focus up. Just be really careful not to spill it on the boards, just take your time. I changed the blue and green one. My red was fine, I powered it up before any liquid was drained and looked in all of the lens. The red you could see just fine, but the other two was like it had a film over the words coming out of the lens. Real easy, just get help flipping the tv over. I can't stress this enough take your time and NO spills.[reply]

panaman
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Jan 14, 2009, 3:04 AM

Post #123 of 174 (35508 views)
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Re: [rkcrews] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Is this the drain you were talking about? Did you have to take the front off of the tv? Anyone else have any other ideas, tips, etc?
I'm just trying to get a clear plan in order. Plan to do it on Friday. Mad

Mad

panaman
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Jan 14, 2009, 3:14 AM

Post #124 of 174 (35507 views)
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Re: [panaman] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

Oh, one other thing: anyone remember what width was the plastic tubing that they had? Does it go around the turkey baster, or inside, for the best suction?
Here is a pic of my TV, Philips Magnavox 54" RPTV.

rkcrews
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Jan 14, 2009, 4:12 AM

Post #125 of 174 (35501 views)
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Re: [panaman] Changing CRT Coolant [In reply to]	Can't Post

The only difference from yours then mine, is the size. Just like the drains. I used a fish tank hose, with a bogger sucker for baby nose attached to the hose. 2 things to make sure of, 1st have the tv turned up with the drain hose straight up in the air. 2nd thing don't turn the drain plug the wrong way, trust me you'll be going to the store after crazy glue to put the tab back on it. Let me know how it goes...

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