Need Ron M


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dgentry516
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Dec 9, 2010, 4:06 PM

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Need Ron M	Can't Post

Ron,

I've got a power issue with a Sanyo. I've read most of your replies in helping people. Still no power. Turns on and then off. I have no formal training in repair but am learning and will to learn from you. I'd appreciate your help. I will not waste your time.

Thanks
Don

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 9, 2010, 7:14 PM

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Re: [dgentry516] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

dgentry516;.....

Quote

I have no formal training in repair but am learning and will to learn from you.

This may be a big problem.....Electronics or TV repair is not easy to teach....

Lets start with a model number....

Later...Ron.M.... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Dec 9, 2010, 7:15 PM)

jts1957
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Dec 9, 2010, 8:39 PM

Post #3 of 84 (3680 views)
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Quote

I've read most of your replies in helping people.

Bet that took some time.

-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 9, 2010, 8:53 PM

Post #4 of 84 (3678 views)
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Re: [jts1957] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

jts1957;....

Quote

Bet that took some time.

NOT NEAR as long as reading yours !!!!..... Smile

Later...Ron.M..... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
New User

Dec 9, 2010, 9:54 PM

Post #5 of 84 (3674 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

AVM-3289G

Thanks Ron

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 9, 2010, 11:27 PM

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dgentry516;......

I don't have the exact manual for your TV , but I may have one that's close enough for government work..... Wink

....

Does your chassis look like this one;=>....

Let me know....

Later...Ron.M.... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
New User

Dec 10, 2010, 1:33 AM

Post #7 of 84 (3662 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

Ron this is what my chassis looks like.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9720/img01590.jpg
http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/5132/img0158jx.jpg

I also have a Technical Service Manual (photo fact)
Model# AVM-3289G
Chassis# G5R-3289G0

Thanks Ron

Uzail
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Dec 10, 2010, 2:20 AM

Post #8 of 84 (3658 views)
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Re: [dgentry516] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

just fyi he can't see those Jpgs copy and paste with the widget one.

by the way nice picture Ron lol

Ron.M
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Dec 10, 2010, 2:27 AM

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dgentry516;....

Even tho there are some differences in the chassis layout , I think that the 2 chassis are similar
enough for me to work with my manual for now....
IF I need a copy of yours , are you able to scan & send it to me ???

Back to our regularly scheduled program;=>....

See that big black thing in the upper left corner of my pix , that is the flyback transformer (FBT)....
Just below it & ON your TV is a transistor called the Horizontal Output Transistor (HOT) , mounted on an aluminum heatsink....
It is attached by a single screw that goes thru the top....
Unsolder all 3 pins & unscrew the "HOT" & remove from the board....
With a DVM read ohms from the center pin on the HOT to any of the outside pins...Post info....
Now take a reading from the center pin of the HOT ON the chassis to ground...Post info....
Ground is best found on the tuner cover or cable connector....

What is the number on the HOT ????
It will be "Dxxxx"....
Post info.....

Later...Ron.M.... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
New User

Dec 10, 2010, 2:49 AM

Post #10 of 84 (3652 views)
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The HOT number is D1879. I tested it and found it to be bad, so I replaced it. This is how I tested it.

Test each pair of leads both ways (six tests in total):

The base-emitter (BE) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The base-collector (BC) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The collector-emitter (CE) should not conduct either way.

center pin on the HOT to any of the outside pins = 6.22
center pin of the HOT ON the chassis to ground = 0.L

dgentry516
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Dec 10, 2010, 2:53 AM

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Re: [Uzail] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

Using a Mac and my option when I right click on imageshack gives me links to the pics.

jts1957
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Dec 10, 2010, 3:51 AM

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http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/...9/SANYO/2SD1879.html

Out of circuit:
B-E = small resistance (but NOT ZERO);
B-C = Diode junction,
C-E = Diode junction.

-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 10, 2010, 4:20 AM

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dgentry516;.....

Quote

The HOT number is D1879. I tested it and found it to be bad, so I replaced it.

WHAT with ????
Did the replacement crap out also ????

Quote

I think that the 2 chassis are similar
enough for me to work with my manual for now....
IF I need a copy of yours , are you able to scan & send it to me ???

Weeeeellllll ????....Forget sumptin ????

I've tested transistors ALL my life using the ohms scales...
Got the same bottom line , just in a different way....
In one direction low resistance & in the other high resistance...
So I tend to not understand the readings you & others give.....
IF the readings are too close to one another OR VERY low , it usually means the transistor is bad...
The "diode" method did not tell me IF a transistor was/is bad...
It's just a number to me...

Later...Ron.M.... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
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Dec 10, 2010, 5:12 AM

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Re: [Ron.M] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

I tested the D1879 like above. My understanding was that this was the proper way to test a NPN transistor.

Testing like this....A NPN with Damper Diode.

B(black probe) -C(red probe) should have reading
B(black probe) -E(red probe) should have reading

C(black probe) -B(red probe) should have NO reading
C(black probe) -E(red probe) should have NO reading

E(black probe) -B(red probe) should have reading
E(black probe) -C(red probe) should have reading

This test says the transistor is good.

Excuse the detail, just wanted you to know how I was testing.

You asked me to remove the "HOT" from the board....
I read the ohms from the center pin ON the HOT to any of the outside pins.
Took a reading from the center pin of the HOT ON the chassis to ground.

[URL=http://img547.imageshack.us/i/img0161q.jpg/]

[URL=http://img254.imageshack.us/i/img0162zk.jpg/]

If this too much information I understand. Just wanted you to see what's happening on this end.

Thanks again Ron

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 10, 2010, 6:37 PM

Post #15 of 84 (3628 views)
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dgentry516;....

1st , some unfinished bussiness;=>....

Quote

The HOT number is D1879. I tested it and found it to be bad, so I replaced it.

I repeat!!!!!=>....
WHAT with ????
Did the replacement crap out also ????

&

Quote

I think that the 2 chassis are similar
enough for me to work with my manual for now....
IF I need a copy of yours , are you able to scan & send it to me ???

AGAIN:=>.....Weeeeellllll ????....Forget sumptin ????

Now;....
The way you checked the HOT IS FINE....
I noticed that you used the ohms scale.....
Some techs use the "diode" scale....

Your detail is very good....
Please improve on my questions..... Wink

....

THANKS.... Sly

.....

later....Ron.M.... Cool

.....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
New User

Dec 10, 2010, 7:00 PM

Post #16 of 84 (3624 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

I replaced the D1879 with a NTE2331. When I tested D1879 using the "first" test,

The base-emitter (BE) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The base-collector (BC) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The collector-emitter (CE) should not conduct either way.

C-E conducted both ways.

When I tested this way,

Testing like this....A NPN with Damper Diode.

B(black probe) -C(red probe) should have reading
B(black probe) -E(red probe) should have reading

C(black probe) -B(red probe) should have NO reading
C(black probe) -E(red probe) should have NO reading

E(black probe) -B(red probe) should have reading
E(black probe) -C(red probe) should have reading

This test says the transistor DL1879 is good. I will check the NTE23321, using the "diode" scale, when I get back home.

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 10, 2010, 8:51 PM

Post #17 of 84 (3616 views)
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dgentry516;.....

Lets not get confused over testing the transistor my way OR using the diode method....

When you used this method;=>...

Quote

The base-emitter (BE) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The base-collector (BC) junction should behave like a diode and conduct one way only.
The collector-emitter (CE) should not conduct either way.
C-E conducted both ways.

When you got this reading;=>..."""C-E conducted both ways.""
That is a bit vague....BUT , what the meter showed as a number would have been more informative........

I noticed that your meter was set on ohms in this pix;=>...
http://img547.imageshack.us/i/img0161q.jpg/

In the pix you have a reading of about 5.8 meg ohms....
On my new D1880 transistor I get about 1 + meg ohms using the exact hookup as in your pix...
When I reverse the leads I get wide open , no reading....
So I KNOW mine IS good & yours is BAD....
It should read in ONE direction ONLY....

Sanyo's in the past have not taken too kindly to generic HOT replacements....
A NTE 2331 has given me problems in the past with Sanyo TVs....
I suggest you get a "Sanyo" replacement....

A suggestion;=>...
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/2SD1879

Next step;=>....

With the HOT OUT of the set;...
Set the chassis in such a way that you can SAFELY read the voltage (About 130 vdc) from the center pin of the HOT to chassis ground....
Turn the TV on...
See IF it STAYS on ....
Post readings & IF it stays on....
IF it stays on:
Turn TV off....
Go to Q401...
Q401 is located near T401...
T401 is on the other side of the 4 pin yoke connector....
Q401 is a small transistor that in your pix , appears to be at the lower left corner of T401........
Turn the chassis over & position it so you can do the following....
Use care because the 130 vdc may still be there as it will hang on for awhile even tho the TV is off & unplugged....
With the board in a SAFE position you need to CAREFULLY read the voltage on the collector & the base pins...
The collector will go to T401 & have about 130 vdc (OR 38 vdc) when turned on ...
The base will have R404 hooked up to it & should have about 2 vdc (OR .4 vdc) when turned on...
The 3rd pin (the emitter) goes to ground & will read a short when you use ohms with the TV off & unplugged...
Post ALL readings & answer my questions....THANKS....

Good Luck.... Sly

.....

Later....Ron.M..... Cool

.....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Dec 10, 2010, 8:54 PM)

dgentry516
New User

Dec 11, 2010, 12:19 AM

Post #18 of 84 (3609 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

Ron,

This is what it looked like. Plugged in....
[URL=http://img205.imageshack.us/i/img0164o.jpg/][IMG=http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/4154/img0164o.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us

Push the power button...
[URL=http://img602.imageshack.us/i/img0166d.jpg/][IMG=http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/8084/img0166d.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with [URL=http://imageshack.us]ImageShack.us

2-3 seconds later, a click. I'm assuming power off but there was no voltage drop.

Did I have the setting right on the DVM? On to Q401?

Thanks Ron

dgentry516
New User

Dec 11, 2010, 12:43 AM

Post #19 of 84 (3608 views)
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Ron Checking Q401...

"The collector will go to T401 & have about 130 vdc (OR 38 vdc) when turned on ."

T401 Primary is 129.2.

Base to ground is 3.92.

Emitter to ground is 0.L

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 11, 2010, 1:54 AM

Post #20 of 84 (3604 views)
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dgentry516;.....

The reason all that is screwed up is;....
My bad....
I said when you do those readings go to "chassis ground"....
However , I did not tell you where "chassis ground" is & you went to what you thought was "chassis ground" which is "Hot" ground on the AC line....
The easiest place for chassis ground is the tuner case or covers...
The tuner is the box that has the co-ax cable fitting on it....

I will try to be more detailed in the future....

Sorry about that.... Unsure

....

Re-try ALL that I asked for & you'll get a totally different set of results....

Quote

Did I have the setting right on the DVM?

I don't know....You switched DVMs on me & I can't tell from the pix I saw....Nice try.... Crazy

....

BTW:....When you post links , do not put then side by side....
Seperate them by a line or some spaces...THANKS.... Sly

....

Later....Ron.M.... Cool

....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

dgentry516
New User

Dec 11, 2010, 3:49 AM

Post #21 of 84 (3602 views)
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Ron,
Someone suggested I use the "widget link" from imageshack so that my jpegs can be seen in the message. If this is not right or you have trouble viewing them let me know and I will try another link.

HOT to chassis

<script src='http://img522.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=img0175af.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>[URL=http://img522.imageshack.us/i/img0175af.jpg/]

</noscript>

Collector to chassis ground

<script src='http://img121.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=img0168t.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>[URL=http://img121.imageshack.us/i/img0168t.jpg/]

</noscript>

Emitter to chassis ground

<script src='http://img802.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=img0167j.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>[URL=http://img802.imageshack.us/i/img0167j.jpg/]

</noscript>

Base to chassis ground

<script src='http://img219.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=img0172r.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>[URL=http://img219.imageshack.us/i/img0172r.jpg/]

</noscript>

Thanks Ron

jts1957
Veteran

Dec 11, 2010, 9:18 AM

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Damn BIG pictures.

What's going on with ?IC101??

Set has a history or was changed recently? Let's see the soldering job more closely.

-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away

dgentry516
New User

Dec 11, 2010, 2:31 PM

Post #23 of 84 (3597 views)
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Re: [jts1957] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

Yeah, BIG Damn Pictures. I'll scale down next time.

dgentry516
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Dec 11, 2010, 2:42 PM

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Re: [dgentry516] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

I read that was the problem. I ordered another from MCMElectronics and installed. I did check to make sure that I didn't have any solder touching. I'll check again.

<script src='http://img510.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=img0177hq.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>[URL=http://img510.imageshack.us/i/img0177hq.jpg/]

</noscript>

Thanks

Ron.M
Veteran

Dec 11, 2010, 7:39 PM

Post #25 of 84 (3586 views)
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Re: [dgentry516] Need Ron M [In reply to]	Can't Post

dgentry516;.....

I need a IMAX theater to see those pix....
TOOOOoooooo large & blurry.....

SUGGESTION:=>....

When you upload your pix into your computer , transfer them one at a time to "Paint"....
Then label each of them with different names so when you hit browse at Imageshack , you can ID them...
Save them as JPG or JPEG format to wherever you can find them easily (Desktop or ???).....
Makes it a lot easier....
END SUGGESTION...

It was Uzail who suggested the "widget" (???)...
In the future , upload your pix using the "Upload Options" feature....
Click on the drop down arrow where it says "Do not resize".....
Choose 800X600...Skip "Add Label"...(?)....Upload pix...
Then go to "My Images".....
Then with your mouse on the pix , right click & click on "View Image".....
A new window will open up with the pix in it...
Do NOT click to "Zoom" in on the pix.....
With your mouse on the pix , right click & then click on copy....
Come here & click on paste.....

Ta-Da...You get a decent sized pix....
BTW;...You have 3 arms ????

Now that that is settled....

There appears to be a problem with your results....
In the pix below , in the circled area , it looks like you don't have the correct ground....

That is a twist tab that may/may not be grounded to the main chassis....
Read ohms from the tuner shield (case) to that point & see if you get 0.00 ohms....
Post results...
WHY did you change IC101 ????... Mad

....
You may have to put the original back in.....
You "may" have to go into the "Factory Menu" to adjust certain parameters to match the new one to your set...
I'm not going to help you with that if needed....
AND , it has not been determined bad yet....

Give me the readings in script , please....
IF I need pix I'll ask for them.....THANKS..... Sly

.....

Later...Ron.M....
Veteran & Retired TV technician

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