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Dead Sony KV-32TS36

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jts1957
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Mar 17, 2014, 1:22 AM

Post #126 of 198 (1989 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

It's infested. Time for last rites. Pirate

-------------------------
Location: Far, Far Away

CRT_Fan
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Mar 17, 2014, 3:50 AM

Post #127 of 198 (1986 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

What do you make of this?

Old flyback has this number on it: 1-439-498-71

Maybe it is cursed...

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 17, 2014, 4:22 AM

Post #128 of 198 (1978 views)
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CRT_Fan;....

Quote

What do you make of this? ..
Old flyback has this number on it: 1-439-498-71

How come you didnt see that weeks ago ?????...
Monday I'll do some research & get back to you...

mel & jts1957;...
You both are probably right...
But as long as CRT_Fan or I are willing to muddle thru , I see no reason to call the coroner...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 18, 2014, 2:26 AM

Post #129 of 198 (1967 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

>How come you didnt see that weeks ago ?????...

The joints were soldered absolutely flawlessly. If it wasn't a factory job (and I wouldn't rule out that possibility) it sure fooled me! Maybe it was a warranty repair and Sony subbed their own part???

It's looking futile, but I hate giving up and I hate to trash such a great (and heavy) piece of equipment. I guess I'll muddle through a while longer, as long as you're up to it. At least it's good experience. Plus I've got a few parts left.

This is definitely going to be lower priority though and I'm not sure I want to spend too much more money. Unless it's to purchase a full D board somehow. Maybe I can find someone with a similar set who wants to get rid of it and can ship me the boards. Hmm...

Thanks again for all your help, Ron. Just let me know when you've had enough Smile

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 18, 2014, 7:54 PM

Post #130 of 198 (1950 views)
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Re: [CRT_Fan] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

CRT_Fan;....

Quote

It's looking futile, but I hate giving up

Yes , it is & so do I...

Not having any luck to see IF 1-439-498-71 crosses to 1-453-146-11/21...
Can not find SONY 1-439-498-71...
Found a generic , but will NOT recommend it as it's made by Asti & have serious doubts it would work...

IF you are willing;=>..

Quote

Time to put the original flyback back in & see what gives with that one...

Let's give this one last shot & compare what it does to the "1-439-498-71" flyback...
Just for the hell of it , look on the "D" board for the board number....
It should be on a label &/or printed somewhere on the board...
It will start >> "A-1346-xxx-A"
Please post back with that info before you change the flyback...
Thanks...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Mar 18, 2014, 8:02 PM)

CRT_Fan
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Mar 18, 2014, 9:45 PM

Post #131 of 198 (1945 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

xxx = 112. Found it on the component side of the board. Not sure what that 1-646-715-11 number is. I assumed that was the actual part number for the board but I guess not.

Noticed another possible problem: C501 is bulging. It's connected to ground though so it's probably not a critical defect.

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 19, 2014, 1:30 AM

Post #132 of 198 (1934 views)
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Re: [CRT_Fan] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

CRT_Fan;....

1st off;...

I have/had a dispute with an a-hole in another thread...
He goes by the name of "MK"...
He has lost almost every argument he posed...
So now he is acting like a spoiled brat & throwing a temper tantrum...
He now has returned as "fatman24"..
So "MK" = "fatman24"...
The best way to handle jerks like him is to IGNORE him & let Admin ban them PERMANENTLY!!!...

Back to us;...
A-1346-112-A is the correct board for that chassis/model...
So somebody apparently did some subbing with the flyback that I can not verify as correct...

Quote

C501 is bulging. It's connected to ground though so it's probably not a critical defect.

Ahh , but , it IS...
That cap is a filter for +15 vdc that goes to Q503 & IC501...
That cap IS bad & explains why Q503 was getting very hot after a few seconds..
REPLACE that cap with a 1,000 mfd 25 or 35 vdc electrolytic cap....
That cap IS polarized , so when you replace it , be SURE that you get "+" to "+" & "-" to "-"....
Check D502 to make sure it's OK & NOT shorted..
Then turn on the TV & see how Q503 responds...
Leave the replacement flyback in...

Let me/us know what the results are...
THANKS... Smile

...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Mar 19, 2014, 1:32 AM)

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 19, 2014, 11:44 PM

Post #133 of 198 (1798 views)
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Are we back...? That was weird! Definitely not your run of the mill troll.

D502: not shorted

Wired a 1000ufd 200V (that's the best I could do) cap to the board temporarily. Seems to work and the transistor is no longer getting hot.

Also, putting my ground probe on the heat sink did not cause any disturbances that I can detect this time, so that's good.

Something else might be wrong though. The sound still seems a bit unsteady.

I suspect that the other FBT was partially bad which was masking these other problems.

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 20, 2014, 12:18 AM

Post #134 of 198 (1790 views)
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Re: [CRT_Fan] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

CRT_Fan;....

Quote

Are we back...? That was weird! Definitely not your run of the mill troll.

Yep !!!!
I suspect he WAS "MK" , even tho he denies it...

That 1,000 mfd 200 vdc cap has to be HUGE...

Quote

Something else might be wrong though. The sound still seems a bit unsteady.

Let's forge ahead & see what happens...

How is Q591 doing ???
Getting hot ???

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 20, 2014, 1:26 AM

Post #135 of 198 (1781 views)
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Re: [Ron.M] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

Ron, if you visited this thread when it was messed up, I'd recommend running a virus checker on your PC just to be safe. He only vandalized this thread and he put a Flash object on the page. I don't know what it was, since I have Flash disabled, but Flash is a very common vulnerability on the web.

Ran it for 30 - 60 seconds. The squeal is there but after a few seconds there was another sound a lower pitched whirring noise almost but it stopped after a few seconds. Eventually all the sound stopped and I turned it off.

Q591 was not hot but Q503 was! Either something else broke or I just didn't leave it on long enough last time. AHGGGGH !#$%#$!

Turned it back on briefly and the squeal was back. No idea what's going on here.

In other news, yesterday I did some searching and found a few classified ads in other states for people selling identical models. Sent out a few emails and got a reply from one guy who might be willing to sell me the boards from his working unit if I give him step by step instructions on how to take them out. He said he'd think about it. Might be a bit pricey though.

What do you think? Would major adjustments be required or are most of them tied to the CRT/yoke?

If I buy it, should I get the yoke and/or C board as well or just the main boards?

The CRT itself can't be bad, right? Is this a safe silver bullet repair or I am potentially getting deeper into the money pit?

One last question. The service manual covers a lot of different models and there are two D boards. Would they be compatible with the CRT, just different features, or should I insist on an identical model if I go this route? Even if this guy says no, I can probably find someone else eventually this way.

Have a nice night...

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 20, 2014, 6:10 PM

Post #136 of 198 (1750 views)
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Re: [CRT_Fan] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

CRT_Fan;....

Admin told me that we were not hacked as I originally thought...
It was NOT a virus or any sort of malware...
For security reasons I can not tell you what he did to screw up the forum..
I did take your advice & ran antivirus scans & they came up CLEAN...
I have 3 antivirus programs...
Avast , which is active when I'm online , SpyBot & MBAM...

Quote

Q591 was not hot but Q503 was!

Check C503 & D503...
Check both Q503 & Q505 for shorts...
Preferably out of the TV...
Make sure that both C501 & C503 read 1,000 mfd...

Quote

The CRT itself can't be bad, right?

I don't see a problem with the CRT at this time.....
How did the pix look before the set went out ???

The "D" boards are NOT interchangeable...
The "112" board is designed for a 32" TV & the "129" board is designed for a 27" TV...
So you'll have width & vertical deflection problems..
You'll have to get the "112" board IF it comes down to it...
You will NOT need the yoke & "C" board with a new/used "D" board...
You should not need to make any adjustments with a "112" replacement board..
Time to put the yoke back on the CRT...
Slide it on to match the marks you made & firmly tighten the clamp..
Do NOT OVERTIGHTEN the clamp...

Did you resolder the pins on IC605 , the 12 volt regulator IC ???

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 20, 2014, 10:03 PM

Post #137 of 198 (1743 views)
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Everything checks out. Also checked R556 & R557.

Still getting +12 and -15 off of diodes.

Q503 base measures .3V and the collector measures 30+V but I guess that's the (8) waveform. Q503 still getting hot after a short period. Also zapped me this last time. Ouch. Why is it getting so hot???

Q505: B/C 0.07V & 2.7V seems normal.

> Time to put the yoke back on the CRT...

It's been on for weeks. I put it back the first time you said "connect everything except CN107".

> Did you resolder the pins on IC605 , the 12 volt regulator IC ???

Jah mon.

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 20, 2014, 10:17 PM

Post #138 of 198 (1737 views)
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CRT_Fan;....

I have to run some errands ,so I'll be gone much of the afternoon..

In the meantime;...
With the yoke & the "C" boards disconnected;...
Turn the TV on & go to yoke connector CN107 & read AC volts between pins 5 & 6...

Post reading....
THANKS...

Later..Ron.M... Cool

Veteran & Retired TV technician

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 20, 2014, 10:45 PM

Post #139 of 198 (1735 views)
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~ 0.29 VAC, frequency was unsteady but around 600Hz

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 21, 2014, 2:39 AM

Post #140 of 198 (1730 views)
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Re: [CRT_Fan] Dead Sony KV-32TS36 [In reply to]	Can't Post

CRT_Fan;....

OK , that's a BAD reading x 2...

Go to IC501 , the vertical output IC...
Read dc volts on ALL pins...
There are 7 pins on that IC...
They are staggered...
Some will be "+" , others will be "-"..
Post ALL readings...

600Hz is WAY off !!!...
Double check that & post...

Thanks...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Mar 21, 2014, 2:43 AM)

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 21, 2014, 10:50 PM

Post #141 of 198 (1706 views)
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Now it's bad x 7!

IC501
1 1.9 good
2 8.5 bad and wrong polarity. checked twice
3 -5.9 bad
4 -8.6 bad
5 -6.8 bad
6 7.6 bad
7 2.0 good

This time the VDH reading was:
2.6 khz
.18 VAC

I looked into a couple of things and found that the Hz reading is based on zero crossings and the VAC is an RMS reading, not a peak-to-peak reading. It's still off though. For a sawtooth 2.8 Vpp I calculate the RMS reading should be around 0.808 Vrms.

I'm holding out hope to get working boards from that guy I mentioned. Talked to him again and I think it's 80% he'll sell them to me. It turns out he'll be in my area in a few weeks and can drop them off, so I'll be able to get the yoke as well at no shipping cost, and he won't have to disassemble the entire thing.

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 22, 2014, 12:25 AM

Post #142 of 198 (1699 views)
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CRT_Fan;....

1st thing I'd like you to do is cool your jets on getting a replacement board &/or yoke!!!
And , with 95% certainty , I don't think a replacement yoke is needed OR justified !!!..

Quote

This time the VDH reading was:
2.6 khz
.18 VAC

"VDH"=??
How & what with are you using to get frequency readings ???..

IC501 BAD !!!...
Remove it & re-take voltage readings on the board from IC501 PC connections..
Re-check the temp on Q503 & Q591...
How is the "squeal" sounding ??
Did it change with IC501 OUT ???

Quote

2 8.5 bad and wrong polarity. checked twice

Pin 2 has a low reading , but , the polarity IS CORRECT !!!
The -13.8 on the schematic is for Pin #3 !!!
Pin 2 goes direct to +15 vdc...

Check C535 (220 mfd) coming off pin 3 of IC501..

Quote

Make sure that both C501 & C503 read 1,000 mfd...

Did you use an ESR Meter to check these caps ???...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

..
Veteran & Retired TV technician

(This post was edited by Ron.M on Mar 22, 2014, 12:33 AM)

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 24, 2014, 12:40 AM

Post #143 of 198 (1672 views)
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"VDH" should be V.DY

I'm using a Fluke 112. You can download the manual on Fluke's website if you're interested, but it's pretty skimpy. I don't believe it does ESR.

1 1.9
2 12.2
3 12.0
4 -18.3
5 -0.14
6 12.1
7 2.0

Sound wise it still seems off. The squeal is there but there's a lower pitched noise that is very inconsistent. Almost sounds like a motor or fan spinning up and down irregularly. Not sure if that's the HOT or something else.

Neither Q591 nor Q503 is getting hot now.

C535 = 200

mel
Veteran

Mar 24, 2014, 5:20 AM

Post #144 of 198 (1667 views)
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Fluke used to be the Cadillac of test equipment

Ron.M
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Mar 24, 2014, 9:38 PM

Post #145 of 198 (1649 views)
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mel;...

Quote

Fluke used to be the Cadillac of test equipment

In my book , they stilll are !!!

CRT_Fan;...

ALL these voltages are OK except;...

1 1.9
2 12.2
3 12.0 <<< Care to correct or re-check??
4 -18.3
5 -0.14
6 12.1
7 2.0

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 25, 2014, 12:27 AM

Post #146 of 198 (1642 views)
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Now it's measuring around 1.5V but it's not steady and it's definitely still positive. It looks to be "VP OUT" so I'm not sure the reading is meaningful with the chip gone.

Speaking of which, I ordered two more.

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 25, 2014, 12:49 AM

Post #147 of 198 (1639 views)
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CRT_Fan;...

Yes, replace IC501 with TDA8172 & C535 with 220 mfd @ 50 vdc..

One IC is enough unless you are going into the biz ... Wink

...

When you get BOTH parts in , go ahead & install them...
Post when you have done that..
Remember the cap is polarized & should match the polarity when you took it out...

Have a great week... Sly

..

Later...Ron.M... Cool

..
Veteran & Retired TV technician

Ron.M
Veteran

Mar 26, 2014, 12:48 AM

Post #148 of 198 (1624 views)
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CRT_Fan;...

After thought!!

It would be a good idea to replace "C501's" counterpart C503 with a 1,000 mfd @ 25/35 vdc..

Sorry about the hiccup !!!.... Angelic

...

Later...Ron.M... Cool

...
Veteran & Retired TV technician

noah23
New User

Mar 28, 2014, 9:05 AM

Post #149 of 198 (1611 views)
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Thanks for sharing some knowledge. Found solution on my Phillips LCD TV display problem. Thanks
http://ny.pe

(This post was edited by noah23 on Mar 28, 2014, 9:08 AM)

CRT_Fan
User

Mar 29, 2014, 10:40 PM

Post #150 of 198 (1589 views)
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1 = 2
2 = 12
3 = -15
4 = -16.3
5 = -1.5
6 = 11.3
7 = 2

Looks pretty good. No heat problems (short test) and sound may have improved.

VDY = .3 Vrms, 7.8khz

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

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